Chennamkary

Chennamkary is a small village on an island in the Backwaters about 10km from Alleppy.  Actually this island is cut across by canals, making even this island a collection of smaller islands. It is about 22km around the perimeter. About 10 000 people live in 7 villages. There is no road access and no motor vehicles.  Anna and one of her 3 children, Thomas, supplement their farming income by running a tourism business which is a co-operative of 7 island homes which take guests. Thomas is very knowledgeable and has excellent English. There are local activities to do such as village walks with Thomas, cycling and canoeing. Anna cooks up 3 delicious meals a day. As it is now the low season because we are still in the monsoon there are only guests in two of the houses – Anna’s and her daughter’s – which are opposite each other. Thomas is currently building his own house on the same plot of land. When I arrive there are 2 german couples and 4 french people staying.

I go for an evening walk with Thomas and the French tourists.  We pass the local church, which is preparing for the feast of St Joseph this coming Sunday. The service is being broadcast through a tannoy and can be heard across the fields and canals. Joseph says the Indian people like to do things in excess - big, bright and loud.

St Joseph’s Church

The local school takes children from 5-16 and is where Thomas and his brother and sister went to school. The school is run by the government, aided by the catholic church and the curriculum is in the local language of Malayalam. Other government schools teach all lessons in English and there are also private fee-paying schools. Kerala is very progressive and every village has a school. The state has the highest literacy rate in India.

We walk through the rice fields which are lower than the canals.  A big field belongs to 75 families. 70 years a go there was still a feudal system here, with a landlord owning all the land and the people worked for him. Since then land reform has divided the land up and given it to the people. The small oases of trees within the fields are higher land where 2-3 families live. There are paths through the rice to get to the homes. Each home also has a dug-out canoe for use when the rice fields are flooded either deliberately twice a year between rice crops or due to flooding if a dyke breaks.

Rice fields with small islands

Because all the land is cultivated with rice, cows are usually kept in barns or sheds, or tethered by houses. The locals cut grass to feed the cattle from the edges of the paths with hand sickles. Between crops the cattle are allowed into the fields and Joseph says they dance for joy!

Cows in a shed

At the end of the path we come out on the canal again. Joseph’s canoe is waiting for us in the dusk and two boatmen are ready to paddle us back. We climb in and Joseph stands in the front of the canoe and paddles occasionally.

Joseph in the canoe

Me in the canoe – big grin!

It gets dark quickly and the rain starts heavily. We all put up umbrellas. Joseph starts singing a folk song in Malayalam and keeping the rhythm by banging the handle of the paddle against and the floor of the boat. The paddlers at the back sing the response and I join in as best I can. It is very atmospheric. Vicky would love it!

Singing in the rain

We have dinner together and afterwards  Thomas produces a bottle of toddy for us to try if we wish. This is local alcohol made by tapping coconut palms and fermented by natural yeast. If it is drunk straight away it is sweet and not very strong. Later in the day, as the sugar turns to alcohol, it becomes less sweet and stronger. It is a milky colour and doesn’t taste particularly pleasant. It’s a bit like drinking bath water. He talks about the big social problems in Kerala which contribute to one of the highest suicide rates in India. Alcoholism is a contributing factor and also pressures to achieve and acquire material things are eroding the spiritual and community life.

The next day I take walk by myself along the edge of the island and cut back along a smaller canal that has very few houses on it.  Almost the whole time I can hear loud music being broadcast from the church. For me the constant sound detracted from the beauty of the place; but I understand that I am only 1 tourist and the festival is the highlight of the church calendar for the locals.

Thomas says that almost all of the local people are friendly to tourists, as they benefit directly and indirectly from tourism. He asks me not to give anything to the children. In the early days of the houseboat industry, tourists gave pens and sweets to local children, thinking that they were helping. However there is no need for this type of charity as families are able to provide everything their children need and this has encouraged children to beg. Most people smile and say hello as I wander around. A few older people just look straight at me with no acknowledgement. I pass 2 boys on a boat jetty; they snigger; say hello, then ‘Pen?’

Main canal bank

Smaller canal

Goats on the path

hibiscus

Because all the land is reclaimed there is a need to carry out remedial work to the banks from time to time, otherwise all the land would eventually slide into the water. Here you can see that the bank has been raised recently with orange-coloured sand and grit.

Raising the bank

In the evening there are a few fireworks s part of the church festival celebrations. The church is decorated with coloured electric lights. The music is of course being broadcast. Several stalls have been set up in the church grounds. They are selling packets of snacks, toys and trinketty jewellery. The girls each get a balloon on a string, a packet of crisps, bangles and a hair band.

The next day I take public ferry across the middle of the island. In the middle is a large lake.

Lake

3 teenage girls sit behind me giggling. They are studying agriculture and start to tell me about the paddy fields. I catch about 1 word in 5, but smiling and nodding is sufficient and they seem delighted.

Girls on the ferry

I believe the church festival is due to reach its climax tonight and tomorrow. I decide it’s time to leave the beautiful Backwaters and make arrangements to head down the coast to Varkalla.

I say goodbye to Thamas`and his family and take the little canoe ferry across the canal to pick up a rickshaw to take me back to Alleppey.

Thomas`and family

crossing the canal