The beautiful Banks Peninsula lies to the south east of Christchurch. I spent a couple of days here after returning from Melbourne and now that Debbie has gone back to Hong Kong I return here for a few more days, to soak up the scenery and quiet atmosphere once more and this time to do some hiking . The geography here is very different from anything else I have seen in New Zealand. The peninsular is formed by ancient volcanic activity. Akaroa volcano began erupting 9 million years ago, forming a large cone, with lava flows radiating outwards. At its maximum the volcanic mountain may well have reached 2000m; more than twice its present day height. Aerial photographs clearly illustrate that Akaroa Harbour is the original flooded crater, surrounded by a rim of hills, with radiating lava flows and eroded gullies in between.
I drive out to Onuku Farm at the end of the road beyond the little French town of Akarowa. Here on this working farm there is a cosy, friendly little hostel and a field for camper vans that has the most fantastic view of the harbour and hills beyond. The farm is owned by an old Kiwi called Jeff, whose family have been here for 150 years and the hostel is managed by Gemma, from Saltash, who is in the process of applying for her New Zealand residency. In the evenings it gets dark early and it’s cold, so an added bonus is being able to go and sit by the log fire in the hostel lounge. Staying in the hostel there is a Canadian ex-pat, who is doing some building work in Akarowa, building a big house for a rich Englishman; a Polish girl who currently lives in Ireland and a Finnish girl. The Canadian guy and Finnish girl talk about winter sports and the Polish girl and I get some tips from him, as we are both going to Canada later on. In the camping field several other camper vans come and go. Some people stay only one night, but others stay longer. There is a German boy, who pairs up with the Polish girl in the hostel; a very nice Dutch couple who have two young children who are almost exactly the same age as my grandchildren; a French guy with a German girl, currently living in Bangkok, who have a 6 month-old baby. I admire the families travelling with young children, but they are all experienced travellers and they all look so relaxed. Everyone shares the open-fronted kitchen facilities and we chat while preparing food and eating. I often sit at the picnic table next to Josephine and Jeff comes by on his quad bike with his little black dogs and talks to me about the farm, his two marriages and offers me advice and tips for my trip to Fiji. One afternoon I am sitting here writing my blog and I feel the table shake momentarily. I look down, thinking that perhaps one of the dogs has arrived and knocked the table, but there is nothing there. I wonder if that was my first earthquake? Later on I learn that Christchurch has had a 5.3 quake.
Onuku Farm
Onuku Farm Van Park
Onuku Farm Hostel Lounge
The Banks Peninsula Track starts from here. This is a different walk from the others I have done, in that it is privately run by the local landowners; crossing farmland and staying in interesting and varied accommodation provided by the farms. Although New Zealand is fantastically set up for tramping in the National Parks and on land looked after by the Department of Conservation; what it does lack is the network of public access tracks and footpaths that we have at home, so this will be a nice change from the wilderness of my previous tramps. The track is 35km long and there are 2 walking options: 4 nights and 4 days, which is a gentle walking holiday; or 2 nights and 2 days for those who prefer longer walking days and spending less money! I choose the 2-day/2-night option and having packed my rucksack, I move out of Josephine and walk about 100m to the other side of a hedge, where Jeff has built the track huts in which every walker stays for the first night of the tramp. Set in a beautiful garden of pampas grass and palms there are two purpose-built huts; one for the 4-day walkers and another for the 2-day walkers. The huts are far more luxurious than the DOC huts on the other tramps, with a hot shower, pillows on the beds and a fully-equipped kitchen. On the slope just beyond the garden there are also several of these little houses that look like chicken coops. They are ‘star gazers’, with a double bed inside and a glass ceiling so that you can lie in bed and look at the stars. I’m definitely sleeping in here. It is very romantic and all that is needed to make it perfect is a nice man to share it with. However, I tuck myself into my single sleeping bag and content myself with looking at the bright, clear night sky through the roof for all of about 10 minutes and then I am soundly asleep.
Day 1
By morning the clouds have gathered and sit on the hills tops. The other 2 day-walkers are two English ex-pats; Fiona and Sarah, who have a rare weekend away from their husbands and young children. They are used to early mornings and consider getting up at 6.30am a lie in, so they set off before me. The group of 4-day walkers are not in any hurry and are just beginning to wander around and make cups of tea, as I set off at 8 o’clock. After crossing the farmyard, the track climbs the steep slopes of the inner crater and before long I can look back down to the farm; the harbour and hills on the opposite side of the crater and spot Josephine still parked in the field way below me.
The track begins to even out and sidles across the slopes across grassland where sheep graze and scatter when startled. This grass contributed to Akarowa’s wealth in by-gone times, as the seed was collected and shipped out in sacks and sold to settlers all over New Zealand who were clearing land for farming.
View of Akaroa Harbour from the Hilltop
As I reach the height of the crater rim at 700m, the views are obscured by the low clouds and the grass and spiders’ webs are picked out with dew. The track continues along the rim for a short way, before dropping down the outer slopes of the volcano and descending through a dark, steep, ferny gully, where the stream cascades over old lava ledges.
Down at sea level is the attractively-named Flea Bay, where there was once a community of 3 families, a school and a dairy. Now only one family lives here and one of the original old cottages is a track hut, where I can rest for lunch and the 4-day walkers will spend their 2nd night. There is no-one else here when I arrive and I can have a good look around. The house still has the feel of an old homestead containing some museum pieces, and the lounge has an old piano, sofas and a fire place. While I am there a car pulls up and a local woman delivers the packs and supplies for the 4-day walkers behind me.
From Flea Bay the path follows the ups and downs of the coast and I enjoy the open coastal views and the similarities with the high, sheer cliffs and inlets of north Cornwall. Most of the cliff tops are covered in open grassland, but on the sheltered hillsides more exotic vegetation, such as flax, flourishes.
The next stopping point is a quirky shelter, built in a small sheltered gully, right up against a granite out-crop.
In a cave at the end of the inlet is a small seal colony and I sit for a while listening to the waves breaking on the stony shore and looking for the seals on the rocks. Today is the anniversary of the death of my father, 35 years ago, and I spend a quiet moment resurrecting some memories of him and also thinking of my mother, who has been a widow for far longer than she was a wife.
At the end of the afternoon I look down into the biggest valley so far and the end of today’s walk. This is Stony Bay and I can see cultivated trees sheltering a couple of houses and gardens and the wide valley behind.
From the beach the track goes inland for a short while alongside the small stream and then an attractive, welcoming gate is the suitable entrance to the grounds of tonight’s cute and curious track huts.
Everything about the place is delightful, full of fun and creativity. Sarah and Fiona have already arrived and the 3 of us are sharing a quaint little hut and they have already lit the fire in the old range and have filled the hut with smoke before they discover that there is a thingy to turn to open the chimney. There are plenty of candles on the table for later, as there is no electricity here. It's like a jolly game of pioneers and settlers, but without the diseases and drownings.
The larger hut contains a jolly party of Kiwis, who are here to celebrate a 60th birthday and they are already drinking wine and cooking dinner from the contents of the little well-provisioned honesty shop in another out-house. The last I hear from them later in the evening is someone calling out across the garden in the dark, ‘Well that’s the end of the pinot.’
There is also an outdoor bath, surrounded by foliage for privacy and heated by an open fire underneath. It is very romantic and all that is needed to make it perfect is…. you know where I am going with this! But I climb in on my own and luxuriate there, watching the steam rise into the evening air, until I am cooked and pink like a lobster.
Aerial Photograph of The Banks Peninsula (photo of an internet photo)
I drive out to Onuku Farm at the end of the road beyond the little French town of Akarowa. Here on this working farm there is a cosy, friendly little hostel and a field for camper vans that has the most fantastic view of the harbour and hills beyond. The farm is owned by an old Kiwi called Jeff, whose family have been here for 150 years and the hostel is managed by Gemma, from Saltash, who is in the process of applying for her New Zealand residency. In the evenings it gets dark early and it’s cold, so an added bonus is being able to go and sit by the log fire in the hostel lounge. Staying in the hostel there is a Canadian ex-pat, who is doing some building work in Akarowa, building a big house for a rich Englishman; a Polish girl who currently lives in Ireland and a Finnish girl. The Canadian guy and Finnish girl talk about winter sports and the Polish girl and I get some tips from him, as we are both going to Canada later on. In the camping field several other camper vans come and go. Some people stay only one night, but others stay longer. There is a German boy, who pairs up with the Polish girl in the hostel; a very nice Dutch couple who have two young children who are almost exactly the same age as my grandchildren; a French guy with a German girl, currently living in Bangkok, who have a 6 month-old baby. I admire the families travelling with young children, but they are all experienced travellers and they all look so relaxed. Everyone shares the open-fronted kitchen facilities and we chat while preparing food and eating. I often sit at the picnic table next to Josephine and Jeff comes by on his quad bike with his little black dogs and talks to me about the farm, his two marriages and offers me advice and tips for my trip to Fiji. One afternoon I am sitting here writing my blog and I feel the table shake momentarily. I look down, thinking that perhaps one of the dogs has arrived and knocked the table, but there is nothing there. I wonder if that was my first earthquake? Later on I learn that Christchurch has had a 5.3 quake.
Onuku Farm
Onuku Farm Van Park
Onuku Farm Hostel Lounge
The Banks Peninsula Track starts from here. This is a different walk from the others I have done, in that it is privately run by the local landowners; crossing farmland and staying in interesting and varied accommodation provided by the farms. Although New Zealand is fantastically set up for tramping in the National Parks and on land looked after by the Department of Conservation; what it does lack is the network of public access tracks and footpaths that we have at home, so this will be a nice change from the wilderness of my previous tramps. The track is 35km long and there are 2 walking options: 4 nights and 4 days, which is a gentle walking holiday; or 2 nights and 2 days for those who prefer longer walking days and spending less money! I choose the 2-day/2-night option and having packed my rucksack, I move out of Josephine and walk about 100m to the other side of a hedge, where Jeff has built the track huts in which every walker stays for the first night of the tramp. Set in a beautiful garden of pampas grass and palms there are two purpose-built huts; one for the 4-day walkers and another for the 2-day walkers. The huts are far more luxurious than the DOC huts on the other tramps, with a hot shower, pillows on the beds and a fully-equipped kitchen. On the slope just beyond the garden there are also several of these little houses that look like chicken coops. They are ‘star gazers’, with a double bed inside and a glass ceiling so that you can lie in bed and look at the stars. I’m definitely sleeping in here. It is very romantic and all that is needed to make it perfect is a nice man to share it with. However, I tuck myself into my single sleeping bag and content myself with looking at the bright, clear night sky through the roof for all of about 10 minutes and then I am soundly asleep.
Onuku Farm Track Hut
Stargazer
Day 1
By morning the clouds have gathered and sit on the hills tops. The other 2 day-walkers are two English ex-pats; Fiona and Sarah, who have a rare weekend away from their husbands and young children. They are used to early mornings and consider getting up at 6.30am a lie in, so they set off before me. The group of 4-day walkers are not in any hurry and are just beginning to wander around and make cups of tea, as I set off at 8 o’clock. After crossing the farmyard, the track climbs the steep slopes of the inner crater and before long I can look back down to the farm; the harbour and hills on the opposite side of the crater and spot Josephine still parked in the field way below me.
Looking back down to Josephine
The track begins to even out and sidles across the slopes across grassland where sheep graze and scatter when startled. This grass contributed to Akarowa’s wealth in by-gone times, as the seed was collected and shipped out in sacks and sold to settlers all over New Zealand who were clearing land for farming.
Grassy Farm Track
Great Big Sheep
View of Akaroa Harbour from the Hilltop
As I reach the height of the crater rim at 700m, the views are obscured by the low clouds and the grass and spiders’ webs are picked out with dew. The track continues along the rim for a short way, before dropping down the outer slopes of the volcano and descending through a dark, steep, ferny gully, where the stream cascades over old lava ledges.
Down at sea level is the attractively-named Flea Bay, where there was once a community of 3 families, a school and a dairy. Now only one family lives here and one of the original old cottages is a track hut, where I can rest for lunch and the 4-day walkers will spend their 2nd night. There is no-one else here when I arrive and I can have a good look around. The house still has the feel of an old homestead containing some museum pieces, and the lounge has an old piano, sofas and a fire place. While I am there a car pulls up and a local woman delivers the packs and supplies for the 4-day walkers behind me.
Flea Bay Cottage
Homestead Lounge
Flea Bay
From Flea Bay the path follows the ups and downs of the coast and I enjoy the open coastal views and the similarities with the high, sheer cliffs and inlets of north Cornwall. Most of the cliff tops are covered in open grassland, but on the sheltered hillsides more exotic vegetation, such as flax, flourishes.
Familiar Cliffs and Exotic Vegetation
The next stopping point is a quirky shelter, built in a small sheltered gully, right up against a granite out-crop.
Shelter
In a cave at the end of the inlet is a small seal colony and I sit for a while listening to the waves breaking on the stony shore and looking for the seals on the rocks. Today is the anniversary of the death of my father, 35 years ago, and I spend a quiet moment resurrecting some memories of him and also thinking of my mother, who has been a widow for far longer than she was a wife.
At the end of the afternoon I look down into the biggest valley so far and the end of today’s walk. This is Stony Bay and I can see cultivated trees sheltering a couple of houses and gardens and the wide valley behind.
Stony Bay Valley
Stony Bay
From the beach the track goes inland for a short while alongside the small stream and then an attractive, welcoming gate is the suitable entrance to the grounds of tonight’s cute and curious track huts.
Gate to the Track Huts
Everything about the place is delightful, full of fun and creativity. Sarah and Fiona have already arrived and the 3 of us are sharing a quaint little hut and they have already lit the fire in the old range and have filled the hut with smoke before they discover that there is a thingy to turn to open the chimney. There are plenty of candles on the table for later, as there is no electricity here. It's like a jolly game of pioneers and settlers, but without the diseases and drownings.
Track Huts
Inside the Hut
The larger hut contains a jolly party of Kiwis, who are here to celebrate a 60th birthday and they are already drinking wine and cooking dinner from the contents of the little well-provisioned honesty shop in another out-house. The last I hear from them later in the evening is someone calling out across the garden in the dark, ‘Well that’s the end of the pinot.’
Shop
Even the outside toilet and shower are remarkable. The toilet has a useful question carved by the door, ‘Is there anybody there?’ and a wooden block hanging on a nail that can be turned around to display ‘yes’ or ‘no’. 
There is also an outdoor bath, surrounded by foliage for privacy and heated by an open fire underneath. It is very romantic and all that is needed to make it perfect is…. you know where I am going with this! But I climb in on my own and luxuriate there, watching the steam rise into the evening air, until I am cooked and pink like a lobster.
Outdoor Bath
5 comments:
i checked out the banks pennisular on google earth after your letter but could see the volcano crater initially as i hadn't realised i needed to look on such a massive scale!
Hi Helen. Lovely, lovely scenery and you are obviously having a wonderful time.. Have been ill, chest infection etc., just improving a little. Peter is coming down to cook a Sunday lunch today, Rob has beenb staying in the caravan this week. I hope I can manage to send this as I donn't really know the procedure. Lots of love Jean X
Hi Helly
Your blog continues to be fascinating and some of the photos are worthy of Athena. I hadn't realised it was 35 years since Vaughan died, he was a one-off and would be so proud of you now!
Keep walking
Rob x
I want to sleep in the stargazer's hut - luckily I do have someone to cuddle up to. Lucky me but don't tell him I said so!
Love Wendy x
Hi Helen,
Another lost sheep?
Hope you're enjoying yourself.
Debbie
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