We leave Beijing on an overnight train to Xi'an, which is 1250km distant. We get on the train in the late afternoon and expect to arrive in Xi'an at about 7am.
Photo 1 waiting room at Beijing station
Photo 2 tour group at the station
Photo 3 of train
I am pleasantly surprised by the train. We are in hard sleeper compartments, so I am expecting it to be rather like my Indian train experience, but it is way better. Each carriage has 11 open compartments, each with 6 bunks – 3 high, like the Indian train, but the bunks have clean covers on them and clean bedding on top of that. There is a Dutch tour group in our carriage and also Chinese people. It is all friendly and calm and by 10pm the lights are dimmed; everyone is quiet and the train trundles gently through the night.
Photo 4 of sleeper train
In the early morning we arrive in Xi'An and take taxis to our hotel. We can't check in yet, so feeling tired from the journey we go in search of coffee. Down the street we find a Starbuck's and are drawn inside and breathe in the familiar smell and environment. We order coffees and muffins, just as we would at home. We also take advantage of the nice western-style toilet and we howl with laughter at the notice inside which says in English and Chinese, 'For your own safety, please do not squat on the toilet seat'!
Photo 4 of Starbucks in Xi'An
After we have checked into the hotel and showered, we are all feeling much refreshed and take a walk around the neighbourhood. Xi'An is also a modern western-style city with clothes shops selling exactly what you might get at home, but it does have ancient city walls, which will explore a bit more tomorrow. This was the capital city of China from the 11th century BC and it remained so until 1000AD. The Silk Road started from here and opened up trade with the west.
Before we leave the city to visit the terracotta warriors we have a fantastic lunch. We share 8 different dishes – the gastro-tour continues.
Photo 5 of lunch
We take a bus for an hour out of the city. The terracotta warriors are at the site of the tomb of the emperor who unified China in 246BC, Shi Huang Di. He also introduced a common system of weights, measures and coins. He was also the one to join up the individual sections of the northern defences and so created the Great Wall. His tomb was prepared so that he would have everything with him in the after-life – palaces, gardens, army, cavalry – everything. The whole site is huge and not everything has been excavated yet; they are leaving parts for the future, when techniques are more advanced.
Today Harvey resorts to the tour leader flag technique and it works well, as there are huge numbers of Chinese tours here.
Photo 6 of Harvey with tour flag
One Chinese tour groups assembles near to us for their tour photo and Rob from our group sneaks in on the end, then more of us join in and the whole thing gradually collapses into chaos. Luckily they think it is funny too. Rob is front left in the picture – i.e. the only western person.
Photo 7 of Rob in Chinese tour group photo
There are 3 open excavated pits to view, plus other exhibitions. Soon after the Emperor died and was buried in his mausoleum the tomb was sacked by another army and most of the statues were damaged and their weapons stolen. The work is still ongoing to put the statues back together.
Photos 8 - 11 of terracotta warriors in situ
Photo 12 of horses
Some of the best examples of the warriors are exhibited in glass cases. The one of a kneeling archer even has detail of tread on the sole of his shoe.
Photo 13 of back of kneeling archer
Photo 14 of tourists looking at an exhibit
In a separate museum there are two half-size bronze chariots displayed.
Photo 15 of bronze chariot
The next morning we go to the old city walls of Xi'An and take a tour around on bicycles.
Photo 16 of city wall gate
Photo 17 of me with bicycle
Cycling along the top of the wall is great and after some rain last night the atmosphere is as clear as we have seen it. There is even a tiny bit of blue sky and sunshine. The view from the top of the wall is interesting, with some old buildings inside the wall and modern high rise outside.
Photo 18 of wall tower with high rise behind
Photo 19 of Buddhist temple
At various points when we look over the wall we can see Chinese people taking their morning exercise. There are various forms of dance and tai chi going on.
Photo 20 of morning dance
We are glad to be getting this exercise, as later today we have another overnight train to Chengdu.
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