Thursday 12 July 2012

The Calgary Stampede

The Calgary Stampede is billed as the biggest and best Wild West Show on earth and this year is its hundredth anniversary. As we are in the area while it is on Brigitte and I decide we have to go and visit.
As we drive east from Canmore we are very quickly out of the mountains and crossing wide open rolling farm land. In about an hour we reach the outskirts of Calgary and take a train right through the city to the Stampede ground. Most of the other people on the train are also going to the Stampede and there are already plenty of cowboy hats and boots to be seen – yee haw.
The Stampede ground is filled with a large fair ground, the main arena, agricultural displays, stalls, various stages for entertainment and an Indian village.
Brigitte and I begin our day by wandering along to the Indian village where local First Nation tribes have erected colourfully painted tipis. There are native people standing around to give information and answer questions about their lifestyle and culture – and no they don’t live in tipis any more. We go inside one tipi which is hung with colourful handmade clothes; many of which are intricately beaded and decorated with feathers.
First Nations Village


Inside a Tipi

The fairground has traditional and modern rides and stalls with soft toys to win and fair food on sale. Almost everything is deep-fried. There are the usual burgers, but also corn dogs, which are hotdogs deep-fried in a cornmeal batter and even deep fried cheesecake. I decide to try poutine, which is an exotic-sounding French Canadian dish; but it is in fact cheesy chips covered in gravy.
Fairground

Poutine

We go into a tent selling western-style clothes. Here you can pick up a whole outfit: cowboy hat, leather belt with silver buckle, cowboy boots, checked shirt and blue jeans.
Cowboy Hats for Sale

We go into the grandstand and join the crowds for the rodeo. We are sitting inthe blazing sunshine and are grateful when the sun moves behind the granstand and provides some shade. The opening event is a precisely-executed musical ride by the Canadian Mounted Police.
Crowd at the Rodeo

Candian Mounted Police Musical Ride

Then the rodeo itself begins with novice events of bare-back and saddle-back riding. Youths try their luck at staying on the bucking horses, but are quickly flung to the ground and many have to be helped out of the ring by the awaiting medical team. It is brutal entertainment. Then the main events follow and the grown men, who are professional rodeo stars, compete for major prize money. There is a total of 2 million dollars to be won over the whole Stampede, with riders winning $5 500 per event. This time, for the most part, the riders somehow manage to stay on both horses and bulls, and only the occasional cowboy limps out of the arena.
Saddle Back Riding

 Bull Riding

Then it’s the cowgirls’ turn to entertain and they race around barrels, churning up the dirt.
Barrel Racing

Then it’s back to the cowboys, who compete to rope a calf and then to leap off their galloping horse and wrestle a steer to the ground. They can manage to do these crazy things in 6-7 seconds flat.
Calf Roping

Steer Wrestling

After the rodeo we wander around the ground visiting the agriculture exhibits, window shopping in the market, taking in an amusing hypnotist show and then visiting an indoor arena where there is a cattle-penning competition going on. Amateur teams of 3 riders have to separate 3 numbered calves from a herd and successfully pen them within 90 seconds. It is a kind of ‘one man and his dog’ event for cowboys and calves. It is very entertaining as there are so many variables. The winning team of 3 riders with $13000 and a new saddle each.
Cattle Penning

Then it is time for another deep-fried snack and Brigitte and I share a funnel cake. This is made by piping a pancake-type mixture into hot fat to make a ring-shaped base which is then decorated with fruit and ice cream. I think some of the weight I lost in New Zealand is going back on.
Funnel Cake

The evening show in the main arena begins with the National Anthem and the Canadian flag is flown across the ground by helicopter. There is something about a National Anthem that makes the hairs stand up on the back of my neck and I am getting quite good at joining in with the words now:

O Canada!
Our home and native land!...
O Canada, we stand on guard for thee.
God keep our land glorious and free!
Canadian Flag

Then comes the chuck wagon racing. Each team consists of 4 horses pulling a chuck wagon, with 1 driver, plus 2 out-riders on horses. Four teams like this compete in each race and there is a complicated start whereby they each have to complete a figure of 8 before racing around the track. It looks chaotic and is exciting; creating lots of dust and noise.
Chuck Wagon Racing

It has been a long hot day, but we have enjoyed it and feel lucky to have had this cultural experience. Back to nature tomorrow.

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