Whistler

Vancouver Pacific Central Station

I catch my first Greyhound bus, from the main station in Vancouver to Whistler. The 2 ½ journey goes north from Vancouver, initially along the coastal inlet that I have already become familiar with and then, after a short stop in the rather dismal-looking small town of Squamish, the road starts to climb through forests towards the mountains.

Whistler is a year-round destination. It is a ski resort in winter, famous as a venue for the 2010 Winter Olympics, and a mountain bike mecca and general outdoor and adrenaline-fuelled playground in the summer. The town is made up of several separate locations strung along the valley and around some picturesque lakes. The smart hostel I am booked into is about 8km out of the main village centre, in an area that is still being developed, but is well connected to the centre with buses and a cycle path. There are half empty apartment blocks and cleared sections of ground that have yet to be built on. It is almost as if the development has come to a halt for now.  

Whistler Hostel

The purpose-built village centre is a bustling place of hotels, rather upmarket shops, bars and restaurants. It is a good place to sit in the sun and watch the world go by.

Whistler Village

Now that the ski season has ended the slopes are transformed into downhill mountain bike tracks and the chair lifts are adapted to carry bikes. I stand at the bottom of the slope and watch the riders hurtle downhill and then queue up again to get the lift back to the top. There are stations for bike washing with high-pressure hoses, bike repairs and places to hire bikes and protective equipment.

Mountain Bike Park

At the other end of the village is the Olympic Plaza, where the medals were awarded and tourists pose for their photo with the Olympic Rings.

Olympic Rings

In the hostel I share a room with a Dutch girl called Brigitte and as it is a beautiful clear day, we decide to spend the day together to ride the cable cars. There is a first cable car to the top of Whistler Mountain (1850m) and then the Peak to Peak gondola which links Whistler with Blackcomb Mountain. This claims 3 world records: the longest unsupported span in the world; the highest lift of its kind in the world at 436m above the valley floor and the longest continuous lift system.

Cable Car to Whistler Mountain

Whistler Mountain

Peak to Peak Gondola

Whistler Village from Blackcomb Mountain

Up on Blackcomb Mountain there are miles and miles of hiking trails – but not accessible yet, because even though there is not enough snow for skiing, there is too much for hiking. This is disappointing, but the cable car ride was worth it for the view.

Once down off the mountain down off the mountain we take a walk along some of the many paths and bike tracks to a nearby lake, where people relax on the grass.

Whistler is home to black bears and there is advice everywhere about being ‘bear aware’. This makes me rather nervous, and has so far restricted my hiking, but the locals seem cool with it. If young mothers will push babies in prams along the paths, then the risk can’t be too high.

Lost Lake

The next day I rent a bicycle from the hostel and take advantage of the well laid-out bike paths to explore some more of the local lakes. I still don't see a bear.

Alta Lake

Tomorrow I return to Vancouver, where hopefully my driver’s licence will be waiting for me at the post office. Brigitte and I arrange to meet up again in the Rockies in a couple of weeks’ time.