Kaikoura and Hanmer Springs

Sarah (my roommate) and I travel together by train for the 2 ½ hour journey from Picton to Kaikoura, which is on the east coast. New Zealand only has a few passenger lines – one in the north island running down its length and two in the south island; one going east to west across the mountains via Arthur’s Pass and the line we are taking, which runs down the east coast from Picton to Christchurch. There are smart new carriages and the windows in the two passenger carriages are big to make the most of the scenery. There is one open-sided observation car and a smart refreshment car. After the conductor has checked tickets, he comes around again selling ice-creams. Is this a train or a cinema?

Kiwi Rail

Sarah on the train

As the passengers get on and settle into their seats I recognise a girl who was on the wine tour yesterday. This is Sally, who comes from Yorkshire, but has been working in the north island for a couple of years and now she is travelling in the south island before going back home. She joins me and Sarah and as we chat we discover that she is booked into the same hostel as us in Kaikoura. Now we are 3.

To begin with the train travels through the Marlborough wine region that I visited yesterday and then it goes through hills covered with dry yellowy-brown grass. In one field there are lamas and deer in another.

Inland Scenery

After a while the line heads towards the coast and soon we are running parallel to the road right along behind the beach.

Coastal Scenery

As we near Kaikoura we start to see fur seals on the rocks. They are quite hard to spot at first, as they blend in so well with the rocks. They are now protected and their numbers are increasing.

 As the 3 of us sign in at the hostel we meet another girl we recognise from the train - Erica from New York. Now we are 4. We decide to take a walk in the early evening through the town and around the peninsula. It is lovely to see the mountains so close to the sea. A couple of peaks in this range are over 2000m.

Mountains by the sea

Erica, Sally and Sarah

The walk is along a pleasant grassy sward with open views in all directions. On the far side of the peninsula the cliffs turn white and the scenery is rather like along the Dorset coast.

White Cliffs

The next day it is raining and Sally leaves us to continue her journey. Erica, Sarah and I hire a car and drive to Hanmer Springs, where there are natural hot pools. The little town has a tree-lined main street and some upmarket shops and cafes. This could be a European spa town and because of the look of the place and the multi-national company I am in, for a moment I have the feeling that I don’t quite know where I am. We have a pleasant soak in the various pools and feel very relaxed. A nice way to spend a gloomy day.

Hot Pools at Hanmer Springs

We say goodbye to Sarah here, as she will be staying here for a few days. She is nearly at the end of her trip and will soon be returning to Switzerland to start her career as a vet. She has been lovely company for the last week.

I have finally heard that my van will be ready tomorrow, so my plan is to catch a bus back to Nelson to collect it and then take a few days to drive the 1000km or so, right to the bottom of the island via the west coast. I have really enjoyed my stay in the north of the south island, but I am excited to finally be moving south.