Lovina

I catch the tourist shuttle bus along with another 6 tourists from Ubud to Lovina on the north coast of Bali. To begin with we travel across flat land cultivated with rice and then as we start to climb into the mountains the farming becomes more varied. We stop about half way to drop off 4 passengers and local people are by the side of the mini bus trying to sell us strawberries. The second half of the journey is a switchback down to the coast. There are occasional barriers at the roadside and road signs which optimistically indicate that overtaking is not allowed. 

At one point on the journey I notice several motorbikes and cars have pulled into the side of the road and seem to be waiting for something; then round the corner we come upon a road block where the police are pulling some vehicles to one side. Maybe they are checking road tax, or something similar. We are waved through. I guess the  vehicles I saw waiting by the road side had a tip off by molible phone and are just waiting for the police to finish and pack up.

The north coast is drier than the south and is less developed for tourism. Lovina is the name given to a collection of four fishing villages strung out over a distance of about 8km along the coast. Everything is slightly cheaper than in the more-developed south and I find a room just 100m from the beach in a place called Kalibukbuk. It is a nicer room than I had in Ubud and it is less than I paid there, including breakfast and the use of the swimming pool at the hotel next door.

I hire a bicycle to explore the coast and the villages. The main road is about half a mile inland and from this, small roads run down to the sea. Some roads lead to totally local villages with just a few boats pulled up on the sand, and small huts at the back of the beach where the families live and pigs and chicken wander on the sand. Other places are more developed and have restaurants and a few shops. The whole place is quiet and peaceful with great views towards the west end of Bali, with Java beyond.

North coast  views

Restaurants by the beach

Temple by the beach

Whenever I stop at a beach local people wander over. They chat in a friendly way, but they always have  something to sell. While sitting on one beach in the shade of a tree for a hour or so I get offered paintings, saris, fruit, handmade paper, jewellery, a snorkelling or diving trip, a massage and transport. There are very few tourists around for them to sell to.

3 girls wander up to me. They have already been at school from 7-11 o'clock and now they are supplimenting the family income by trying to sell a  few necklaces and bracelets. They sit down and start to play a clapping game.

Girls playing a clapping game

The next day I take a motorbike ride with a guide. We go inland to visit a waterfall. We walk through some fields of rice and marigolds to reach it.

Marigold field

Rice fields

Waterfall

On the way back we stop at  small shop and buy a durian fruit. These are large spikey fruit that have a smell that some people find offensive, but I haven't found it particularly unpleasant. Because of the smell, in some hotels there are signs that say, 'NO DURIANS'. The shop man needs a sharp knife to cut it open and the fruit lies within padded sections. The consistency is very soft - rather like custard and the taste is a bit like that too.

Durian fruit