Sunday, 2 September 2012

Coming Home


I have to plan how to get from Nova Scotia to New York for my flight home. It feels a bit like a puzzel - one wrong move and I might end up days or kilometres away from my destination. It has been a theme of my time here that public transport in the province is going down the pan Originally I thought it might work well to take the ferry from Yarmouth in the south, across to Maine in the US, but I soon find out that my guidebook is a few years out of date and this ferry no longer runs. This is contributing to the decline of Yarmouth, as they are losing tourists and business. I can get the train to New York, but this involves travelling 1000s of kilometres back into Canada via Montreal, which doesn't seem very appealing and this is also the route for the long-distance bus, which I hear is ceasing service before Christmas. It is a 'don't-start-from- here' kind of place. Perhaps the provincial government doesn't want tourist here, or maybe they don't want the locals to leave.  After doing some research it seems that a flight is the only viable option. Actually it turns out to be two flights; the first to Pennsylvania and then a really nice 1/2 hour one in a little propeller plane to La Guardia airport. I was last here nearly 5 years ago, for a great reunion with my lovely college friends and I feel a little sad, that it hasn't worked out to see Lindsey again this time. It is a clear sunny day as we fly in across New York harbour and the Statue of Liberty raises a hand to wave. I can see the whole of Manhatten - the space where the Twin Towers were; the Empire State Building and Central Park. Then we fly up the Hudson River before looping back round to land at La Guardia airport, where the runways seem to be floating on the water.
Plane to New York
 
I take a shuttlebus to transfer from La Guardia to John F Kennedy airport and then settle down for a 7 hour wait for my flight to Hearthrow. I seem to be is a state of suspended animation where time passes neither quickly or slowly and I don’t do anything other than eat occasionally and wait.
By early evening I am on the plane, but we have to sit on the tarmac for an hour and a half while we sweat and fan ourselves, because some passengers have not boarded the plane and they have to find and take off their luggage before we can take our queue in the line up for take off. The captain and crew keep us well-informed about our progress and there is a rather disconcerting announcement to say that a jet engine in the rear of the aircraft is not working, but reassuringly this is the explanation for the excessive heat in the cabin because it powers the air conditioning. Eventually we take off and have an uneventful flight. Looking out of the window as we come into land at Heathrow in the early morning I can tell that I am back in the UK, as the farm landscape of fields and hedges is very familiar and the London roads are curved, rather than laid out in straight gridlines. 
I come out into the arrivals hall it feels like a scene from ‘Love Actually’ as Peter is there to meet me, with a bunch of pink roses. He is the friend I was with in New Zealand at the time of ‘the robbery’. When we parted there we thought that another time and place might bring us together again. We have been e mailing each other over recent weeks and this now feels like the right time and place. I have kept this part quiet from most of you and I have even concealed my intention to create this bubble in time and spend some days with him before returning to Devon. I feel somewhat uncomfortable about this deception and now need to come clean. We spend a lovely few quiet, reflective days together staying a friends’ house in North London and it feels like a buffer and transition between my travels and returning to Devon to my local family and friends.
I know I am in the UK, but it doesn't yet feel like 'home'. I get used to the traffic being on the left and how to cross roads safely. Wandering up the Holloway Road feels like a continuation of my travels, with sights that I would normally try and capture with my camera.
A few days later Peter and I say goodbye (for now) at Paddington Station and I catch the train to Plymouth. Leaving London and rushing through the English countryside in the train really begins to feel like being home. The layout and look of the landscape of farmland and villages is so familiar and so far nothing appears any different from what I remember. The journey is the reverse of how I started my travels a year ago; it feels like re-winding back to that time and place, but I know that once my view becomes more focussed on the really familiar details of home, changes that have taken place within this last year will become apparent. Some I am expecting and predicting and others will no doubt catch me by surprise . After Exeter I start to concentrate more fully on the passing scenery – the iconic section along the coast past Dawlish and Teignmouth; Newton Abbot from my childhood and adolescence; Totnes where I will soon be living; Ivybridge where I lived and worked before leaving England and on to my final destination of Plymouth where Kate and family live. I find myself reflecting on my travels and musing about the choices and decisions I will soon be making which will shape this next phase of my life.
Kate and the grandchildren meet me at Plymouth station. They all look great and my eyes fill with tears as we hug our hellos. Megan is not at all shy, but Elliot looks unsure and a bit confused. Back at their house they show me the chart on the wall, amongst the postcards I sent, which has been counting down to my return over the last days. We sit in the garden in the sunshine with toys around us and within an hour or so it begins to feel very natural and almost as if I haven’t missed anything over the last year. I am so happy to be back and re-involved with their lives again.
Megan and the Granny Countdown Chart
 
Me, Megan and Elliot
 
THE END

Nova Scotia Coast


Mirjam and I decide to hire a car and make a tour around the south coast of Nova Scotia. For me this is great because it fills my last few days very nicely and Mirjam is pleased to have the company too. We set off from Halifax travelling south and in a clockwise direction around the coast. She is the driver and I am the navigator. We won’t get lost if we keep the sea on our left. Soon after leaving the city we come to a beautiful area of coast, where the road winds around inlets and very close to the intensely blue water. What look like holiday or retirement properties are built along the shore and the sheltered waters of Shad Bay are dotted with small craft. 
 
Hire Car


Shad Bay


Then the coast changes and low mounds of smooth granite are exposed among low-growing vegetation and shrubs. We arrive at Peggy’s Cove, which is a picture-postcard beautiful small fishing village, with clapboard houses built directly onto bare rock and a stone built lighthouse. There is still some fishing here, but although the main catch here now is tourists, it doesn’t feel spoiled or overly busy as somewhere like this in England would be – Mevagissy for example. The tourists wander on the exposed rocks around the lighthouse and try and take pictures of each other with the lighthouse behind and no other tourists in their shot, if possible. It proves very difficult and I am sure I am inadvertently in several other people’s photos. 

Coast at Peggy's Cove 




Peggy's Cove 




 




Lighthouse at Peggy's Cove



Me and Mirjam at Peggy's Cove


We the drive further along the coast to Mahone Bay, where we are staying overnight in a hostel. Here there are 3 churches built side-by-side; one Anglican, one Evangelical Lutheran and one for the United Church of Canada. I wonder if the church-going residents pick and choose which one to attend on any given Sunday? We wander up and down the street in the early evening and have a meal on the balcony of a pub, looking out across the water of the bay as the sun goes down.

Three Churches at Mahone Bay


Mahone Bay




The next day we drive out along a peninsula and come to a dead end where there is a little community with a working sail loft and a mixed farm with a few horses and cattle. We walk along a farm track alongside a field of cabbages to admire the view across the water to several small islands. Butterflies and dragonflies flutter around us and the only noise is of insects. 

Farm on Second Peninsula


Our next stop is the little town of Lunenburg. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as the best preserved example of a settlement laid out in a grid pattern. The settlement was authorised and arranged by the British, but with mainly German and Swiss Protestants, as a counter-measure to the nearby Catholic French Arcadian communities. In 1753, 1453 settlers arrived on 14 transport ships from Rotterdam. The motivation for these families was that they were each given a town lot, a garden lot, a 50 acre farm lot and 300 acres of woodland, arms and munition and some livestock such as a cow, some sheep, a pig and a goat. The lots were allocated to each family literally by the draw of a playing card, on the reverse of which was written which area of the town would be theirs.

When they arrived the ground had been cleared and laid out in a grid, surrounded by a pallisade with a blockhouse for protection from the natives and the French, but there was nothing else here and they had to set about building their houses with the 500 feet of boards and 250 nails, plus a few bricks for a chimney which they were also given. They soon found that the area was not very suitable for farming and so they turned their hands to fishing and boat-building, some of which still continues today.

Lunenburg  
 



Me and Lunenburg


Lunenburg Church


Inside Lunenburg Church


Lunenburg Museum


Lunenburg Town Plan


Choosing a Plot


On the waterfront there is a memorial to the hundreds of local fishermen who have lost their lives to the sea over the years. 1927 was a particularly dangerous year and there are 3 sides of a pillar to these victims, with the same family names repeated several times: Reginald Andrews, Sam Andrews, Wilfred Andrews.

Fishermen’s Memorial


Leaving the town we take a small ferry across the water and stop on the other side at an old bakery and sit on the wharf with tea and cake. I am reminded of one of the entries on the 'In my life I have learned’ boards in Halifax, that everything is better with cake.

Ferry


Tea and Cake at the Bakery


 

We drive on to Yarmouth, at the south western end of the island and stay overnight here at a bed and breakfast. The lady, Robyn, has only just started doing bed and breakfast and we are her first guests. Yarmouth used to have a ferry which went across Portland, Maine in the US, but this is no longer operating and the economy of the town is suffering as a result and the locals feel badly done-by. We drive out to the lighthouse at the end of a spit, but as we approach the sea mist envelops everything and there is no view.
Robyn tells us about a locally-famous chain of second hand clothes stores, called Frenchy’s and she opens her closet which is jam-packed and she pulls out various designer label items which she picked up for $4 a piece. She tells the story of a small red leather handbag which she researched and found out it came from a design house in Italy and its full price would have been $500! As we drive north from Yarmouth we stop at a Frenchy’s store and I find 4 items for $18, which will give me a few extra things to wear once I get home. We stop at a pretty little historic town called Annapolis Royal and meet up with a friend of Mirjam’s, who takes us for a walk around the grounds of the fort. 

Me and Miriam at Fort Anne, Annapolis Royal


Our next night’s stop is at a camp ground on a lake just inland from here. We want to check into the hostel, but it is full, so we are allocated a cabin all to ourselves. We feel very excited about having all this space to ourselves – 2 bedrooms, kitchen cum lounge, barbecue outside and a balcony overlooking the lake. In the evening and again in the morning we swim in the warm dark brown peaty water of the lake.

Lake Swim

 

Our Lakeside Cabin

 

Our journey continues along a valley which runs parallel to the west coast and we drive out to the coast to a small fishing village called Halls Harbour. This coast is on the Bay of Fundy, which is famous for having the highest tides in the world. 

Halls Harbour

 
Tidal Gauge at Halls Harbour

 
Me and Mirjam at the Bay of Fundy

 

We have one more night’s stay in another bed and breakfast. Mirjam has a panic when she thinks she has lost her passport. She is a very polite girl, but her language gets foul when she is stressed and she repeats, fuck, fuck…’. When she calms down she realises that she has just moved it from its usual place to a safer place and then forgotten that she had done that. She apologies for her language to the bed and breakfast lady, who laughs, but looks slightly shocked.

The next day is our last day together and we complete our circuit with a short journey back to Halifax. We have a last lunch together and a big hug before parting. Mirjam is travelling on further in Canada and I am heading to the airport for my flights tomorrow for my final journey back to the UK.